How to Punch a Hole in a Leather Belt (Without Ruining It)

 Use a rotary punch (or a hollow/drive punch + mallet) on a poly cutting board over a solid surface. Mark the centerline first, size the punch slightly larger than the buckle prong, keep the punch perfectly perpendicular, strike once, and finish with a light edge burnish/condition. For powerlifting lever belts, don’t make new holes—just reposition the lever mechanism or choose the right size.

Read more: How Do Lever Belts Work? (Fitness Fox Guide)

Why precision matters

Leather is a dense, fibrous material. A hole that’s off-center, too close to the edge, or cut with a dull tool can stretch, tear, or look uneven. Clean, perpendicular cuts keep fibers intact so the belt lasts longer and looks better.

Rules of thumb

• Hole spacing: ~25 mm / 1 in between holes for most fashion/casual belts.

• Edge distance: keep the hole’s edge at least 12–15 mm (~½ in) from the belt’s outer edge.

• Hole size: choose a punch just larger than the prong (you want secure fastening without forcing).

• Safety: eye protection on, fingers well away, stable work surface. No heat tricks—heat dries and weakens leather fibers.

Tools you’ll need

• Primary tools:

• Rotary leather punch (fast, multiple sizes on one wheel) or

• Hollow/drive punch set (individual tubes) + wood/rubber mallet

• Measuring & marking: ruler/tape, soft pencil or scratch awl, simple center-finding guide (or mark the centerline by measuring the strap width and halving it)

• Backing & surface: poly cutting board (or dense end-grain) over something heavy and solid; avoid punching directly on stone/glass

• Finishing: light sandpaper (600–1,000 grit) or edge beveler, beeswax/conditioner, clean cloth

• Optional (backup method): drill with sharp bit, two scrap boards, clamps

Read more: how to clean leather belt

Leather Belt Hole Punching — Method Comparison & Setup Cheat Sheet

Step-by-step: the cleanest way to punch a hole

1) Measure, center, and mark

1. Find the centerline. Measure belt width; halve it. Lightly draw a line or score with an awl.

2. Place the dot. Wear the belt and mark the ideal prong position, or measure from an existing hole (keep the 1 in / 25 mm spacing).

3. Check edge distance. Ensure the hole’s edge will sit ≥12–15 mm from the belt’s outer edge.

2) Prepare the surface

• Lay a poly cutting board on a heavy, stable table.

• If you have a dense slab (wood/block), place it under the board to deaden bounce.

3) Choose the hole size

• Pick a punch slightly larger than the buckle prong diameter.

• If unsure, start smaller—test fit—and increase one size if the prong binds.

4A) Method A — Rotary punch (fast & easy)

1. Rotate to the selected tube.

2. Place the tube’s center over your mark and hold perfectly perpendicular to the belt.

3. Squeeze firmly in one smooth action until you feel the punch pass through cleanly.

4. Release and twist the punch slightly to clear the leather plug.

4B) Method B — Hollow/drive punch + mallet (pro-clean)

1. Position the belt on your poly board.

2. Hold the punch dead upright over the mark (elbow planted for stability).

3. Give one decisive strike with a wood/rubber mallet. For thick leather, a second light strike is fine—avoid multiple glancing blows.

4. Tap the tube to eject the plug.

4C) Method C — Drill (only if you must)

1. Sandwich the belt between two scrap boards and clamp firmly.

2. Use a sharp bit the size of the prong (or a hair larger).

3. Drill straight down at low speed; let the bit cut.

4. De-burr the edges with fine sandpaper and condition lightly.

5) Finish the hole

• If fibers look fuzzy, a few gentle passes with 600–1,000 grit tidy the edge.

• Rub a little beeswax/conditioner around the hole, let it absorb, then buff.

• Re-check spacing and alignment with existing holes for a professional look.

Read more: How to Use a Lever Weight Lifting Belt

Common mistakes (and how to avoid them)

• Off-center holes: Your centerline was off. Re-measure the strap width and mark the true middle; consider a simple center-finding jig.
  

• Ragged edges: Dull punch or too hard a backing. Strop or replace the punch tube; use a poly board rather than bare stone.

• Tearing toward the edge: Hole is too close to the belt edge or leather is overly dry—add edge distance and condition the leather.

• Oval/angled cuts: The punch wasn’t perpendicular. Plant your elbow or brace your wrist for stability.

• Over-large holes: Start a size down, then step up only if the prong binds; avoid “wallowing out” the hole.

When not to punch: powerlifting lever belts

If you’re working with a powerlifting lever belt (like our Fitness Fox 10 mm and 13 mm models), don’t add holes. Lever belts are designed to deliver uniform stiffness and core bracing; adding holes can compromise structure and void warranties. Instead:

1. Reposition the lever: Use a screwdriver to move the lever to a different set of factory holes inside the belt.

2. Pick the right size: If your waist fluctuates between off-season and meet prep, choose the size with overlap in both ranges (XS–4XL options).

3. Dial thickness to goal:

• 10 mm: more forgiving, great for high-volume training and mixed lifts

• 13 mm: maximal stiffness for heavy singles and competition specificity

Brand note: If you’re fighting your current buckle belt every session, consider upgrading to a Fitness Fox Lever Belt—fast set-and-forget tightness, suede or leather finishes, and sizes from XS to 4XL.

Mini sizing guide: hole placement & spacing

• Where should the “most used” hole be? Ideally, the center hole of your belt’s set, so you have room to tighten or loosen.

• How many holes total? 5–7 is common on fashion belts; weight belts vary by design.

• Spacing standard: ~25 mm / 1 in keeps a consistent look and fit increments.

• Edge clearance: keep ≥12–15 mm to preserve strength.

Care & longevity after punching

• Wipe away debris and condition the surrounding leather lightly.

• Avoid saturating the hole with oils; a small amount of conditioner/wax is enough.

• Let it rest a few hours before heavy use so fibers settle.

• Store the belt flat or hanging; don’t crush the new hole with sustained pressure when not worn.

FAQs

Can I use a nail and a lighter to make a hole?

• Please don’t. Heat dries and weakens leather fibers and seldom leaves a clean, round hole. A basic rotary or drive punch is inexpensive and safer.

What punch size should I use?

• Measure the prong diameter and choose a punch just larger (e.g., 4 mm prong → 4.5 mm punch). If you’re unsure, test on scrap or an inconspicuous area.

Will a drill ruin my belt?

• Not necessarily, but it’s more likely to leave fuzzy edges or a slightly oval hole if the bit wanders. Clamp between boards, drill slowly, and finish the edges.

How do I fix a hole that’s slightly off?

• If the misalignment is minor, leave it—trying to merge holes makes things worse. Otherwise, punch a new, correct hole and hide the old one toward the buckle side if possible.

What’s different about punching thick weight belts?

•  They’re firmer and layered. A sharp drive punch + mallet usually yields a cleaner cut than a light-duty rotary punch.

Do lever belts ever need extra holes?

• No. Lever belts use a repositionable mechanism—move the lever or select the correct belt size. No extra holes required.

• Weight Lifting Lever Belts (10 mm & 13 mm) — primary CTA inside the “Don’t punch lever belts” section

• How to Adjust a Lever Belt — short tutorial (2–3 steps with images)

• Belt Size Guide — waist measurement tips, overlap chart for XS–4XL

• Nylon Belts / Lifting Straps / Knee Sleeves — contextual cross-links at the end

Closing: choose the right method for a clean, strong hole

Punching a new hole in a leather belt is simple if you respect three fundamentals: accurate marking, sharp tools on the right surface, and perpendicular pressure. Finish the edges, condition lightly, and you’ll have a clean, durable hole that blends in with the originals. And if your “belt problem” is really about quick, repeatable tightness for training, skip the DIY holes—upgrade to a Fitness Fox lever belt and focus your energy on the lift.